Mogwai - my faithful beach dog!

Bless his little paws. Mogwai, I'm regularly told is not an Unawatuna dog, he's from Hikaduwa - a resort about 30 minutes north of here. I never realised that the 'outsider' concept applied to beach dogs too.

He was brought to Unawatuna by a westerner as a puppy, but then she discovered she had to leave and left poor Mogwai to fend for himself on the beach.

He adores attention and is so well mannered. He will seek me out to greet me when I go to the beach and when I have my dinner he will very politely rest his head on my knee until I share the remnants of my meal with him. I've never seen a dog savour every mouthful before. Maybe it comes when they don't take their meals for granted.

He will always curl up in the sand by my feet, growling at strangers who get too close for his comfort. About 50 yards away is good for him! On a few occasions he has escorted me home, trotting by my side. He's even followed me up to the door of my room to make sure I got home safe and then he's returned to his section of the beach.

A rainy day in Sri Lanka

We are having a month of monsoon between the full moon days of October and November!

Folklore says that it is because the monks stay in their monasteries and the villagers take food to them. Or do the monks stay there because it is raining?

Hmmm.

Anyway, one such rainy afternoon, produced an unexpected pleasure. A trip to the cinema with a group of my Nangi's (younger sisters) from the village. We stocked up with snacks at the supermarket and went to watch the latest Bollywood release - "Don".

I didn't have a clue what the commercials were about, but the other viewers seemed to get very excited about them. They don't provoke those responses in English cinemas.

The film was very entertaining, a fast paced action thriller, interspersed with all singing and dancing scenes. Imagine what should be a steamy love scene and then the woman strips off her coat to reveal a sequined strappy dress before throwing herself around the apartment singing to her lover. That was as steamy as it got!

What did astonish me though was when we got up to leave I noticed a row of cubicles along the back wall of the auditorium. When I asked Iranka what they were he burst out giggling. They were painted black and had double doors on them that were low enough for the occupants to see over. Inside was a double seat. They were courting boxes! Or lovers boxes!

I never expected to see anything like that in what generally appears to be such a chaste society!

It was a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon and not one that most tourists would have an opportunity to experience. But then I'm no longer regarded as a tourist here.

Lexi's last night

Lexi and dancing partner

This turned out to be an amazing and spontaneous night out. We had been invited to a birthday party at a house straight out of a design catalogue.

The guy dancing is Chintaka who takes it very seriously. He lost patience with me because I can only bounce around in my own inimitable style. Lexi, however, proved a more worthy partner.

The funny thing was, she had no recollection of doing it. In the background is Raju.

Dancing queens

The Saturday night beach party at Unawatuna. Rosie and Lexi getting lost in music

Sunset at Mirissa

The beach at Mirissa

After one night back in Unawatuna I headed off to Mirissa with my boys Richie, Matt and a couple of their friends.

It was a spectacular beach and very unspoilt. I imagine that 'Tuna looked like this 10 years ago. There are just a handful of guest houses set back from the beach and a couple of small restaurants on it. It was hit badly by the Tsunami and is only just getting back on its feet.

An evening in the wrong hotel

We finished the day in style at the 'wrong hotel'. It had to happen really and was the seal to a perfect and funny day.

We had decided to visit the Hill Club in Nuwara Eliya which is an ancient colonial hotel that still observes all the formalities of the past. I had been there 10 years ago with my exhusband and thought it would be interesting to retrace a few steps.

As we walked up the path to the sprawling mock-tudor building in the dark I commented how it appeared to have changed over time. The grounds looked smaller and the hotel looked more modern. It wasn't until we were inside that we realised we were in a different hotel entirely.

They had carpet and beer so we stayed. It turned into a really good night anyway.

Getting things wrong can sometimes prove so right.

OK! Who has the biscuits? I know they're in here

Suddenly transported to the Peak District

The cloud followed us from the edge of Worlds End and it was suddenly like walking at home. It was very eery, but still beautiful.

Bakers Falls

Intrepid Explorers

Anna, Lexi, Rosie and Me

The wrong Worlds End

Worlds End is a spectacular view on Horton Plains about an hours drive from Nuwara Eliya. You have to get there early before the cloud descends and obscures the view. We all thought it was very spectacular and worth the early start.

We managed to get there just before the cloud did come in. What we didn't realise until about half an hour later was that we had been admiring the wrong one. That was a bit further along and by the time we got there it was well and truly wreathed in cloud.

The group of English tourists that were already sitting there looking at the wall of cloud were quite bemused when we arrived and Lexi exclaimed "Nice view!" and we all carried on walking. When we realised our error we were in fits of giggles for ages.

I still think that ours was better.

Open air toilet at Horton Plains. At least it was western.

I finally got to wear my fleece

Oooh I missed being cold


Evenings in Nuwara Eliya are really quite chilly and I have to admit that I really did enjoy being cold enough to wear my fleece.

I have got used to the heat now, but feeling cold is a nice novelty.

How cold is it in Nuwara Eliya!

Lexi was so cold at the hotel in Nuwara Eliya I think she threw on every item of clothing she had with her.

Bet it seems warm compared to England now, No2 Madam!!!!!!

Hill country

A beautiful waterfall on the climb up into the Hill Country to reach Nuwara Eliya. The camera does not do it justice

The Dog Father

I finally found him! This poor old fellow is the sire of most of the dogs in Unawatuna. To varying degrees they all look like him. He is in wretched condition and just potters around. You always know when he is under your lounger because of the smell.

In his eyes you can see how tired he really is. It's very sad.


The other dogs on the beach have a strange respect for him. He never gets scolded by them when he crosses into their different territories.

I guess that shows how steady my life has become at times, to be observing the canine politics of Unawatuna.

Relaxing after a hard day ruin seeing

One hungry stone lion

The end of the trail

This was the end of our trail at Polonaruwa. The reclining Buddha carved out of rock.

I had waited 10 years to visit this and whilst very impressive it was a little disappointing. The photos that you see of this create the illusion that it is on a par with Mount Rushmore when in fact it is really quite small. His standing counterpart is 7 meters tall.

However, the grain of the stone running through him was truly beautiful as was the detail.

Save a prayer

An unexpected treasure

I have to confess that by the time we got to this part of the site I was feeling a little jaded. It was extremely hot and dusty with bikes that were incredible hard work. My knees were in agony too and when we reached the entrance to this part of the site my first thought was 'Oh no! Not another pile of red bricks'

I persevered though and I'm so glad I did. This statue of Buddha was immense and I felt so humble standing before him. How on earth the ancient Sri Lankans managed to build him is amazing in itself.

He actually became the most special part of the trip to Polonaruwa. It was a very special moment.

The Monks' Toilet

This made me giggle so much. It is a lavatory in the monks' residence. Obviously they had very small feet. Just not sure about the plumbing.

Enjoying a King Coconut during our bike ride around the ancient site

One of the ancient temples with Buddha in the background.

A bathing pool at Polonaruwa

Real coffee at last

Hooohooooo! My first Red Cross parcel arrived with a jar of real coffee. I was so excited and bounced down to the beach to show Lexi my trophy.

Sri Lankan's just don't do coffee well at all. It is somewhat like drinking sludge. I have tried reading it in the bottom of the cup to see if it is the same as reading tea leaves, but it just doesn't work.

Biking around Polonaruwa

This was the best way to see the site of Polonnaruwa. They weren't the best bikes in the world but it was good fun. At least mine had gears. Lucy's had been taken apart, but she had a good seat and Fiona had suspension. If you had mixed them all together you would have had a good bike.

Who is cosicave?

Forgive my ignorance, but who is this?

So much for doing nothing!!!!!

Well my intentions were good!

I intended to do nothing for as long as possible, but it just hasn't happened that way. Instead I have found myself adopted by many people in the village as Akka - elder sister - and even some as Nangi - younger sister and as a result life has become a bit of a social whirlwind.

I go off on my jaunts occasionally, but I can't wait to come back down here, to Unawatuna, where it truly does feel like home. Even three days away to go sightseeing leaves me eager to get back here. There is a feeling of acceptance here that I like.

It may ultimately prove difficult to move on from here, but I am beginning to believe that if I am happy, why leave!

This is real life. I have realised that Alchemy and magic can happen. I have created my own gold. I'm happier now than I have been for a long time.

Right now as I am typing this I have been watching the sun go down beyond the temple across the bay and a beautiful sky remains. The restaurants on the beach are setting out their tables for dinner, candles are being lit and the waves are gently caressing the shore line.

Heaven is on earth and I'm in it.

Bo, Karen and Rita posing in front of Bo's new home. Another dream being realised. Proud of you Bo!

A herd of wild elephant seen on the way to Polonnaruwa. How great can life get? I've had a day of ticking things off my list and conquering my fear and I get to see this. Amazing.

The surrounding landscape

The view of the path on which we had made our approach.

Triumphant at the top

At the top of the rock. It was so exhilerating to have made it to the top and to have pushed beyond my fear. The view was truly incredible and all I had hoped for.

The Lion's Paws

Taking a break at the Lion's Paws. Me, Fiona, Lucey and the unfortunate Casper! To reach this point we had just crossed an iron platform clinging to the side of the rock with a hurricane blowing us round.

I was absolutely terrified by that point and it's only Lucey's and Fiona's wonderful patience that got me across it. I have never wanted to run so fast in the opposite direction in all my life.

After that there were just a couple of flights of stone steps and me and Fiona decided to go up on all fours. The Sri Lankan guy at the top thought it was quite funny until he saw my face. He then kept trying to reassure me that it wasn't far to the top. Only a 150 iron steps clinging to the rock face! They start just above the Lion's Paws. I was at a point of no return and so close to the top that I was determined to continue. I sang 'Save a prayer' to myself as I climbed those stairs.

Ancient Sri Lankan Porn

One of the ancient frescoes at the top of the spiral staircase. Thankyou to Lucey and Fiona for taking my camera up. I'm afraid to say that my fear of heights got the better of me and I couldn't face the spiral staircase.


They were still obsessed with it back then.

Taking a rest on the way up. We are approaching the spiral staircase that leads to the fresco chamber. It already looks quite a long way down.

Hysteria is setting in. This is the long approach to the rock through the palace grounds, which really are quite beautiful. My mind was on other things however.

My first glimpse of Sigirya. I have wanted to see the top of this for 10 years. Part of the video for Duran Duran's 'Save a Prayer' is filmed on the top of here and the view is spectacular. There are no gentle slopes to climb to the top and I was well aware that it would be arduous and terrifying. Somehow I was going to do it though

Working elephants taking a bath. It was so hot I would have loved to have joined them.

Fiona, Lucey and me still waiting for dinner. We were the intrepid explorers!

Is dinner ready yet? Lucey, me and the unfortunate Casper with THAT umbrella.

The curry bowl

The rice bowl

The monk's refectory. When the city of Anuradhapura was inhabited 1000's of monks used to live here. They would spend all day meditating in the forest and then come here for dinner. The long rectangular object to the left is actually where the villagers served the rice. Slightly further back is the curry pot. It's hard to imagine how many people it took to prepare that much rice.

Lucey and Fiona. They are bracing themselves against a fairly strong wind

Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba.

These lifesize elephants flank the Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba. There are over 300 of them standing shoulder to shoulder on the four walls surrounding the dagoba which stands 55m tall.

After visiting the big tree we lit a candle and said a prayer. I'm pointing to my candle, but getting my arms singed.

My wonderful outfit. My lovely pink shorts weren't quite long enough for wandering around the sacred sites so I had to put my skirt on over the top. The locals were quite perplexed when I pulled it off to reveal my shorts.

Monkeys. There are lots of these to be found around the ancient cities and sacred sites. I wonder if they are reincarnated monks.