I've put the experience of i-to-i behind me now and I'm settling into the gentle pace of life in Unawatuna.
I realise now that this is actually what I have needed all along. A rest and complete break from everything. Life over the last 6 years has been a like living in the eye of an hurricane with so much going on around me and trying to keep up with it all.
Recovering from a nervous breakdown, living life with the 'black dog' of depression always at your heels, the police nightmare, destructive relationships, selling the house, letting Tarka go and just finding Jo again have all taken their toll.
It's time for me to stop.
So, my days are very lazy and tranquil. I usually surface around 9.30 and then amble down to the beach for breakfast with my toes buried in the sand, watching the sea.
After a couple of hours I might go and check my emails before going back to the hotel. Every time I return it's a delight. My room is made a little more homely everyday and my bed is decorated with flowers in the most beautiful patterns. I never knew a sheet could be folded like that.
I lie in the hammock for a while listening to the sea and my music and read a book whilst the temperature is too hot. Then eventually I stir myself and wander down to the beach for a swim and a laze.
I go back to the hotel for around 6pm and shower and contemplate where I'm going to have my dinner.
There are so many lovely places to choose from, nearly all of them with a sea view, that I'm quite spoiled.
At the end of my day, I retire to my four poster bed and I'm lulled to sleep by the gentle whir of my fan and the waves crashing on the beach.
And that's my day in Unawatuna.
I'm sure that I will eventually get bored and restless, but for now it's just right.
Wish you were here?
Monday, August 28, 2006
Wednesday, August 23, 2006
Monday, August 21, 2006
Thaproban Hotel at Unawatuna.
It's a lovely 3 storied building that has a terrace that goes right onto the beach. There were once steps down onto the beach, but these bear lasting damage from the Tsunami. Huge concrete steps were just ripped away.
Other than that it's kind of diffucult to see what other damage there was. It has a pretty good restaurant, although I'm getting brave enough now to try alternatives. Breakfast is certainly cheaper elsewhere.
The staff are really friendly and appreciate my attempts to learn Sinhala. One has already decided that I'm his big sister and calls me 'Akka' accordingly. Therefore, he is now afforded the title 'Malli' which means little brother. Kind of sweet really.
Other than that it's kind of diffucult to see what other damage there was. It has a pretty good restaurant, although I'm getting brave enough now to try alternatives. Breakfast is certainly cheaper elsewhere.
The staff are really friendly and appreciate my attempts to learn Sinhala. One has already decided that I'm his big sister and calls me 'Akka' accordingly. Therefore, he is now afforded the title 'Malli' which means little brother. Kind of sweet really.
Breakfast on the beach at Unawatuna.
And what a banquet it was! For the grand sum of 80pence I had a plate of the most divine fruit, scrambled eggs, toast, jam, freshly made fruit juice and a cup of the most disgusting cup of coffee. All whilst sitting with toes wriggling in the sand and waves lapping the beach about 50feet away. What a way to start the day!!
Wish you were here!
Wish you were here!
Tuesday, August 15, 2006
The cost of a Tuktuk
A new Tuktuk (the three-wheeled, two stroke vehicle popular across India and Sri Lanka) costs 250,000 rupees to buy new.
That amounts to GBP 1250.
Still trying to find out how many rupees to buy an elephant though! Not having much success yet. I'll ask Jeeves sometime
That amounts to GBP 1250.
Still trying to find out how many rupees to buy an elephant though! Not having much success yet. I'll ask Jeeves sometime
Star Trek
Here's a random thought! Aren't they all!
Have you ever wondered where the different languages of races came from in Star Trek? Possibly not. LOL
The word Lak used by the Ferhengi as a term of currency is used by the Sri Lankans too. It means 100,000 Rupees.
And Ferhengi is an Arabic word for white foreigner, I think. Wilbur Smith uses it a lot in his books.
So there you go
Have you ever wondered where the different languages of races came from in Star Trek? Possibly not. LOL
The word Lak used by the Ferhengi as a term of currency is used by the Sri Lankans too. It means 100,000 Rupees.
And Ferhengi is an Arabic word for white foreigner, I think. Wilbur Smith uses it a lot in his books.
So there you go
The Sri Lankan Tsunami
Sri Lanka was hit pretty hard by the Tsunami on 26th December 2004 and it would seem now that it is fading memory for the rest of the world. In general they are believed to be back on their feet and OK now.
However, Sri Lanka still bears the emotional scars and if you look closely enough there are open wounds visible throughout the communities.
I expected to see a landscape still flattened after bearing the brunt of nature's ferocity, but nature is also tenacious and life will cling on and return, especially plant life. Somehow the palm trees and others generally managed to withstand the wave and since then the undergrowth has come back with a vengeance hiding a lot of the damage.
Apparently the numerous aid agencies that rushed in to help managed to get some people back on their feet very quickly, rebuilding houses and donating boats and tuktuks. Others weren't so lucky and remain in tented camps. Some of the tents look Ok, but not as a permanent home. I've also seen families living underneath frames covered with bin liners. What type of existence is that?
The Wave somehow seems to been quite discriminatory in what it managed to destroy. The weakest houses were swept away whilst others seem to have been untouched. Looking at Galle, where I'm currently based you would hardly notice.
All along the coast there are crumpled ruins of homes dotted about and then shells of houses partially rebuilt. Now it would seem that they are being left to get on with it.
Just about everyone you encounter down here had their life touched or destroyed by it in some way. My friendly tuktuk driver, pointed out the ruin of a house yesterday where a whole family whom he knew were killed. They had never stood a chance. He was at his post at the bus station in Galle when he saw the wave coming. He was fortunate enough to get his vehicle started and get to higher ground. He was lucky and his family survived.
I met a man today in the Fort who had lost 12 members of his family. His wife, children and other relatives. He was eternally grateful to the British for rebuilding him a house. Then he offered me advice about the numerous mozzy bites on my legs and warned me about Dengue fever. His parting shot was 'God bless you'
A sensitive subject is where all the money has gone. It certainly didn't reach everybody that needed it and I think that is why a lot of aid agencies and charities have pulled out. The houses are no longer being built and people are struggling.
I met a guy who told me that who got what depended on who was at the front of the queue when the aid came in and how well they could articulate what they needed. It's a very cynical perspective, but looking around it's easy to believe.
However, Sri Lanka still bears the emotional scars and if you look closely enough there are open wounds visible throughout the communities.
I expected to see a landscape still flattened after bearing the brunt of nature's ferocity, but nature is also tenacious and life will cling on and return, especially plant life. Somehow the palm trees and others generally managed to withstand the wave and since then the undergrowth has come back with a vengeance hiding a lot of the damage.
Apparently the numerous aid agencies that rushed in to help managed to get some people back on their feet very quickly, rebuilding houses and donating boats and tuktuks. Others weren't so lucky and remain in tented camps. Some of the tents look Ok, but not as a permanent home. I've also seen families living underneath frames covered with bin liners. What type of existence is that?
The Wave somehow seems to been quite discriminatory in what it managed to destroy. The weakest houses were swept away whilst others seem to have been untouched. Looking at Galle, where I'm currently based you would hardly notice.
All along the coast there are crumpled ruins of homes dotted about and then shells of houses partially rebuilt. Now it would seem that they are being left to get on with it.
Just about everyone you encounter down here had their life touched or destroyed by it in some way. My friendly tuktuk driver, pointed out the ruin of a house yesterday where a whole family whom he knew were killed. They had never stood a chance. He was at his post at the bus station in Galle when he saw the wave coming. He was fortunate enough to get his vehicle started and get to higher ground. He was lucky and his family survived.
I met a man today in the Fort who had lost 12 members of his family. His wife, children and other relatives. He was eternally grateful to the British for rebuilding him a house. Then he offered me advice about the numerous mozzy bites on my legs and warned me about Dengue fever. His parting shot was 'God bless you'
A sensitive subject is where all the money has gone. It certainly didn't reach everybody that needed it and I think that is why a lot of aid agencies and charities have pulled out. The houses are no longer being built and people are struggling.
I met a guy who told me that who got what depended on who was at the front of the queue when the aid came in and how well they could articulate what they needed. It's a very cynical perspective, but looking around it's easy to believe.
Police Rider Training School
Yesterday as I sat overlooking the bus station and the busy main road I was amused to see that Police Rider training was out on a training session.
There were 4 khaki clad police officers, sporting dayglo yellow vests on pedal cycles, about to negotiate the traffic island near the bus station.
This may not sound terribly difficult but there is no system of road rules here, it's a free for all and might rules. The horn rules too! I'm not surprised they needed to go to school to learn how to get round it.
The other day they were learning how to cross a bridge on their bikes. It was rather comical.
There were 4 khaki clad police officers, sporting dayglo yellow vests on pedal cycles, about to negotiate the traffic island near the bus station.
This may not sound terribly difficult but there is no system of road rules here, it's a free for all and might rules. The horn rules too! I'm not surprised they needed to go to school to learn how to get round it.
The other day they were learning how to cross a bridge on their bikes. It was rather comical.
List of useful things to have
As I think of useful things to have I'll add them.
My most excellent swiss army knife - Humble apologies to Andy for not including it sooner. It goes with me everywhere and when I'm bored I try to burn holes in other people's flipflops with the magnifying glass! LOL (please don't eat any more hats)
A large cotton sleeping bag liner - keeps your legs nicely covered up so that mozzies can't get at them in the night. Does have a tendency to wrap itself you so you can't move your legs and then you have bad dreams about being attacked by giant squid or Anaconda's.
Earplugs - a definite must. They help your room mate to endure your own snoring! LOL
Universal sink plug - sink plugs don't seem to be a common item in Sri Lanka. Necessary for doing handwashing of clothes.
A large boulder - for handwashing of clothes
Quick dry towel - still haven't figured out whether it's supposed to quick dry me or itself. Neither seems to be the case.
Tuppaware - a large box to put all useful gadgets in. Otherwise they end up rolling round bag and you can never find them. You just end up throwing clothes everywhere in attempt to find item. Usually do that anyway before I remember that I put them in my box afterall.
Afterbite ammonia stick - neutralises mozzie bites straight away.
Umbrella - either as sun shade or precipitation protecter
Vacuum bag - means you can get even more stuff in your luggage
Lonely Planet book - don't leave home without it. See last blog.
Miners lamp head torch - for wandering round in the dark. Pretty pointless in daylight actually! Be warned that collection of bugs forms around your forehead when light is on.
(Wish I could draw cartoons. There is quite a bizarre mental image forming in my head from this list)
My most excellent swiss army knife - Humble apologies to Andy for not including it sooner. It goes with me everywhere and when I'm bored I try to burn holes in other people's flipflops with the magnifying glass! LOL (please don't eat any more hats)
A large cotton sleeping bag liner - keeps your legs nicely covered up so that mozzies can't get at them in the night. Does have a tendency to wrap itself you so you can't move your legs and then you have bad dreams about being attacked by giant squid or Anaconda's.
Earplugs - a definite must. They help your room mate to endure your own snoring! LOL
Universal sink plug - sink plugs don't seem to be a common item in Sri Lanka. Necessary for doing handwashing of clothes.
A large boulder - for handwashing of clothes
Quick dry towel - still haven't figured out whether it's supposed to quick dry me or itself. Neither seems to be the case.
Tuppaware - a large box to put all useful gadgets in. Otherwise they end up rolling round bag and you can never find them. You just end up throwing clothes everywhere in attempt to find item. Usually do that anyway before I remember that I put them in my box afterall.
Afterbite ammonia stick - neutralises mozzie bites straight away.
Umbrella - either as sun shade or precipitation protecter
Vacuum bag - means you can get even more stuff in your luggage
Lonely Planet book - don't leave home without it. See last blog.
Miners lamp head torch - for wandering round in the dark. Pretty pointless in daylight actually! Be warned that collection of bugs forms around your forehead when light is on.
(Wish I could draw cartoons. There is quite a bizarre mental image forming in my head from this list)
Monday, August 14, 2006
RTFGB
Before you come out to a country "Read the flippin' guide books!!"
Met a couple of English people at the hotel over the weekend. It would seem that they had experienced a rather disastrous start to their holiday of a lifetime for one reason or another, but the main problem for them was the rain!
Somehow they have managed to book a holiday to Sri Lanka in monsoon season. I'm amazed they managed to book it at all. Sri Lanka doesn't tend to appear until the winter holiday brochures are out anyway.
It just goes to show that you need to do research before heading off somewhere exotic.
Oh and that holiday brochures do lie. There is a big hotel in Colombo that within the grounds does seem pretty fantastic and in the brochures it looks stunning. What you don't see is where it is located, with a railway track running behind it and a very urban area. Stepping out of the gate would not be a pleasant experience to most people visiting it. The beach outside it isn't nice and as a white face you get a lot of hassle.
Met a couple of English people at the hotel over the weekend. It would seem that they had experienced a rather disastrous start to their holiday of a lifetime for one reason or another, but the main problem for them was the rain!
Somehow they have managed to book a holiday to Sri Lanka in monsoon season. I'm amazed they managed to book it at all. Sri Lanka doesn't tend to appear until the winter holiday brochures are out anyway.
It just goes to show that you need to do research before heading off somewhere exotic.
Oh and that holiday brochures do lie. There is a big hotel in Colombo that within the grounds does seem pretty fantastic and in the brochures it looks stunning. What you don't see is where it is located, with a railway track running behind it and a very urban area. Stepping out of the gate would not be a pleasant experience to most people visiting it. The beach outside it isn't nice and as a white face you get a lot of hassle.
The Sunbed stand-off
For our first weekend off in Sri Lanka we headed up to Bentota, which is a popular tourist destination to meet up with volunteers from other projects.
In Sri Lanka it is perfectly acceptable to visit the big hotels and pay to use their pools. It usually costs anything up to GBP2 (they don't have pound signs on sri lankan keyboards only dollar signs!) and for that you get a lounger, towel and use of the facilities.
The hotel is a big complex set in lovely grounds with a nice stretch of beach behind it, but it does seem to cater predominently to Germans. I wandered through it 10 years ago when it seemed very shabby, but it does seem to have had a refurbishment now. Not sure I would pay gbp75 a night though.
I have to admit that I always thought that the thing with Germans and sunloungers was a bit of myth until I saw it today.
The gang we met up with had booked and paid for 7 loungers in a row by the pool. They were all set out with their towels too so they thought that they were safe to leave them whilst the monsoon hit again.
When they eventually came back down a group of Germans had taken 4 of them over and commandeered them in German fashion. What ensued was a heated argument and of course the other side would not back down. They just stole the sunloungers further away. From a distance it was so funny and like a sketch from Fawlty Towers.
We expected them to kick sand in our faces or throw our bags into the pool if we turned our backs.
So - never leave your sunlounger when there are Germans around even if the monsoon is drowning you.
In Sri Lanka it is perfectly acceptable to visit the big hotels and pay to use their pools. It usually costs anything up to GBP2 (they don't have pound signs on sri lankan keyboards only dollar signs!) and for that you get a lounger, towel and use of the facilities.
The hotel is a big complex set in lovely grounds with a nice stretch of beach behind it, but it does seem to cater predominently to Germans. I wandered through it 10 years ago when it seemed very shabby, but it does seem to have had a refurbishment now. Not sure I would pay gbp75 a night though.
I have to admit that I always thought that the thing with Germans and sunloungers was a bit of myth until I saw it today.
The gang we met up with had booked and paid for 7 loungers in a row by the pool. They were all set out with their towels too so they thought that they were safe to leave them whilst the monsoon hit again.
When they eventually came back down a group of Germans had taken 4 of them over and commandeered them in German fashion. What ensued was a heated argument and of course the other side would not back down. They just stole the sunloungers further away. From a distance it was so funny and like a sketch from Fawlty Towers.
We expected them to kick sand in our faces or throw our bags into the pool if we turned our backs.
So - never leave your sunlounger when there are Germans around even if the monsoon is drowning you.
Dogs
Have come to the conclusion that the dogs in Sri lanka must be similar to a thoroughbred race horse. They must all originate from the same two parents.
They all look the same, with the exception of those that have been given house room. They are motley looking creatures, all skin and bone.
During the day they lie asleep at roadsides, totally oblivious of the number of times they nearly get run over.
I just want to feed them all.
They all look the same, with the exception of those that have been given house room. They are motley looking creatures, all skin and bone.
During the day they lie asleep at roadsides, totally oblivious of the number of times they nearly get run over.
I just want to feed them all.
Thursday, August 10, 2006
What's the time Mr Wolf?
It was play day at the People in Need centre at Boosa in Sri Lanka today. All the children were outside in the playground for the morning and they seemed really pleased to see us. We decided to coordinate their play a little and introduced a game that they could all be involved in.
It got them to exercise their counting ability, although their enthusiasm to be the wolf usually meant that their number of steps was trebled.
In case you aren't familiar with the game here's a brief overview. (Then create an image in your head of a Jo sweating like an elephant as Mr Wolf with 20 Sri Lankan children.)
All the children stand behind a line in the sand. Mr Wolf stands about 20-30 metres away. The children shout 'what's the time Mr wolf?' The reply is perhaps 3 o-clock at which the children take 3 steps forward. The wolf then lures them closer and closer with different numbers of steps until the final reply is "Dinnertime!!!' This propels the children back to their line with the 'wolf' in pursuit. Whomever he manages to catch becomes the wolf.
It was so very funny watching them. All taking huge strides forward and not counting at all in their efforts to become the next wolf.
And the laughter and fun we had was something money can't buy. Those who have known me in the past would have been astonished to see me with the children hanging off both arms.
One of the little girls is profoundly deaf but so very pretty. She was the first wolf and she did so well. I was really proud of her.
It got them to exercise their counting ability, although their enthusiasm to be the wolf usually meant that their number of steps was trebled.
In case you aren't familiar with the game here's a brief overview. (Then create an image in your head of a Jo sweating like an elephant as Mr Wolf with 20 Sri Lankan children.)
All the children stand behind a line in the sand. Mr Wolf stands about 20-30 metres away. The children shout 'what's the time Mr wolf?' The reply is perhaps 3 o-clock at which the children take 3 steps forward. The wolf then lures them closer and closer with different numbers of steps until the final reply is "Dinnertime!!!' This propels the children back to their line with the 'wolf' in pursuit. Whomever he manages to catch becomes the wolf.
It was so very funny watching them. All taking huge strides forward and not counting at all in their efforts to become the next wolf.
And the laughter and fun we had was something money can't buy. Those who have known me in the past would have been astonished to see me with the children hanging off both arms.
One of the little girls is profoundly deaf but so very pretty. She was the first wolf and she did so well. I was really proud of her.
Wednesday, August 09, 2006
Sri Lankan Buses
Oh my god! They are absolutely crazy, but so very cheap. Our return journey to work each day costs about 30p. That involves two buses on both journeys and takes just over half an hour.
They get crammed with as many people as can get on them and it doesn't seem to bother people if they are hanging out of the doors. I think the worst place to be is in the middle wanting to get off.
The bus drivers just force their way through all the traffic and people, I've only seen them slow down to let a cow cross the road. Anything else on the road just has to dive for cover.
The conductor must be given danger money to collect money. He usually hangs out of either the front or back door.
It's an entertaining experience to say the least.
They get crammed with as many people as can get on them and it doesn't seem to bother people if they are hanging out of the doors. I think the worst place to be is in the middle wanting to get off.
The bus drivers just force their way through all the traffic and people, I've only seen them slow down to let a cow cross the road. Anything else on the road just has to dive for cover.
The conductor must be given danger money to collect money. He usually hangs out of either the front or back door.
It's an entertaining experience to say the least.
Arrival in Sri Lanka
Arrived in Sri Lanka on Sunday 6th August 2006. Getting through the airport was much easier than I'd expected and I got away with 2 litres of Jim Beam. Well! It was BOGOF in Dubai airport - it would have been rude not to. LOL
Outside the airport it was pitch black and steamy hot, even at 5am. The poor guy that had come to collect me nearly broke his back lifting my holdall into the van.
Even at 5 am the roads are totally crazy. It's like Whacky Races on speed. Everything vies for position and virtually barges everything else out of the way. The horn rules.
Only saw one cow in the road on the hour trip to the guest house. Sunrise was awesome, but rather strange. One moment it is dark, the next it isn't. It's pretty much the same at the end of the day. There is no twilight, someone just flicks a switch. LOL
Outside the airport it was pitch black and steamy hot, even at 5am. The poor guy that had come to collect me nearly broke his back lifting my holdall into the van.
Even at 5 am the roads are totally crazy. It's like Whacky Races on speed. Everything vies for position and virtually barges everything else out of the way. The horn rules.
Only saw one cow in the road on the hour trip to the guest house. Sunrise was awesome, but rather strange. One moment it is dark, the next it isn't. It's pretty much the same at the end of the day. There is no twilight, someone just flicks a switch. LOL
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